Tag: leash training


First this way and Then that Way

Dog Training: How To Train Your Dog To Change Direction When Walking

After you and your dog have pretty much gotten the hang of heeling, your next step is to introduce your dog to changes of direction while heeling. You find out about the three essential turns - a right turn, an about-turn to the right, and a left turn.
 
Turning Right: To stay with you when you are making a right turn, your dog needs to speed up. And, at this stage in your training, he is not yet giving you 100 percent of his attention, and you are going to anticipate that he needs help with the right turn.
 
If you want your dog to pay attention to you, you have to pay attention to your dog. Learning to anticipate what he is going to do is the first step to successful heeling.
 
Just before you make the turn, enthusiastically say his name, make the turn, and keep moving. Using his name will cause him to look up at you and he will notice that you are changing direction, which will cause him to stay with you. Without giving him that cue, chances are that as you make the turn and go one way, he will keep going the other way.
 
About-Turn: An about-turn is a right turn times two. When you make your turn, keep your feet together so your dog can keep up. As you did for the right turn, use his name just before you make the turn to encourage him to stay with you.
 
In the event your dog has a particularly difficult time remaining at your side for the right or about-turn, you can use a treat or other object of interest to him to help guide him around. The treat is held in your right hand as you are heeling. Before you make the turn, show it to your dog by bringing the treat directly in front of his nose and using it to guide him around the turn, then give him the treat.
 
This approach has a potential drawback. Some dogs become overly stimulated when they know you have a treat in your hand. Make no mistake about it, he knows. If you see that your dog becomes difficult to control under such circumstances, you may want to eliminate use of the treat. The hassle is not worth the potential benefit.
 
Turning Left: In order to make the left turn without crowding, your dog needs to slow down as you make the turn and then resume normal speed after you made the turn. Just before you make the turn, slow down and with your left hand draw back on the leash, make the turn, and resume your normal brisk pace.
 
Find out more when you read My Dog is Learning Some New Tricks.

 

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Walking your dog with a Leash

An Exercise in Training and Practice

Teaching your dog to walk on a lead or leash is an exercise requiring training on the part of both you and your dog.  You must have the dog walking beside the owner without overtaking him or pulling.  Walking your dog should definitely not be an exercise in stretching or pulling, but rather a simple task.

The dog lead or leash is an ideal way in which to maintain control of the dog and communicate information to the dog.  Each and every movement, your change of direction and the contraction in your arm are all ways in which you can signal directions to the dog without it looking at you or even having to take a verbal instruction, once the animal has been properly trained.

You can begin the lead training when the dog is a puppy, getting the dog used to wearing of a collar first and then adding the leash to the combination.  Practice this at home, associating it with pleasant and playful times such as petting, games and rewards.  Try to avoid having the dog wear a collar and leash when you are away from it, as this association will consequently associate the restrains to its freedom with your departure from the home.

Once the puppy has achieved a level of comfort with wearing the collar and leash, and is able to walk about comfortably, you can move the next phase of the training in which you are able to make corrections to the dog’s actions.  If your dog pulls too strongly this will indicate a needed correction with a verbal correction,"NO."

You should not pick a retractable dog lead that would prevent a proper avenue of communication with the dog.  In the initial stages of training, a longer lead might be more appropriate and as the dog advances, the lead can be shortened.

Be patient, kind and consistent during all phases of the collar and leash training.  With time, rewards and consistency, your dog will be well behaved and safe.

Don’t forget to visit Leads and Leashes.

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A Walk about Town

Walking Your Dog: City Dog Walking

Navigating Around Obstacles
 
Once you start walking your puppy, you will be amazed at the obstacles that will crop up as you walk down the street. Light posts, parking meters, bus and stop signs, bike rails, waste barrels, fire hydrants, groups of people waiting for a bus or getting off a bus, along with other dogs and people are only some of the obstacles you and your puppy will face.
 
These obstacles may not seem like a big deal until you combine them with pedestrians and groups of people congregating on the sidewalk. And one of the best ways to avoid large groups of oncoming people is to navigate your puppy onto the curb side of lights posts and parking meters.
 
Moving Obstacles
 
Also be aware of moving obstacles such as bicyclists, in-line skaters, kids running and dogs walking on or off-leash ahead of their owners. When approaching moving obstacles, don’t have your puppy on a long lead. You don’t want your puppy or your lead getting wrapped around a moving obstacle.
 
Your best action with a moving obstacle is to shorten the lead and give it room to pass. Don’t get tense by choking your puppy with too tight of a lead. Another good option is to stand still with your puppy and relax while the moving obstacle passes you by.
 
Safety Zones
 
A safety zone is any area that widens the space between your puppy and an oncoming object. It can be an entrance way to a store, the curb side of a parking meter, or an area that’s off to the side. The curb side of parking meters are perfect safety zones because most people don’t walk on that part of the sidewalk. Think of safety zones as a way of controlling your space on the street. For example, if you see a couple of kids on bikes racing down the sidewalk or a person running, you can navigate to a safety zone and keep you and your puppy in a safe position. This is the best way to avoid accidents or close calls.
 
By controlling your space, you also send a strong message to other owners coming by with their dogs that you are protecting yourself and your puppy. You gain control of your space and this can diffuse a tense situation, particularly if a full-grown dog does not like your puppy.
 
You can also use the safety zone method if you see another puppy owner approaching and you are in a hurry and do not wish to spend the time having the puppies mingle with each other. Here’s a good safety tip: Puppies on leashes should never play with each other. Their leashes will get tangled and you will put your puppy in a precarious situation when you have to drop your lead to get out of the entanglement.
 
Don’t forget to read more in Turn This Way…and That Way Too.

 

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