Show Dog Trix

Getting over the Hump

Emily — Fri, 24 Oct 2008 12:35:28 +0000

Why do they Do That?

One of the most obvious reasons that dogs hump is sexual. Males that have not been neutered are able to perform humping as displaced sexual behavior. Some dogs continue to hump even after having been neutered, possibly for purely pleasurable reasons. However, there are actually other reasons that dogs do this. It may be either some genetic background or else, it is a display of dominance.

The humping behavior is seen in both genders of dogs and is sometimes merely a sign of aggression or a desire for dominance in the hierarchy of the family, whether human or canine. It is the dominant dog who gets the right to breed with receptive females.

Females that display this behavior is something a bit less common but not to be overlooked.

As early as possible, if this behavior is evident, it should be corrected. The "object" of the dog's affection should be removed and the dog should be distracted. This may take consistency and patience. In extreme cases, it is essential that the human establish a dominant role to make sure that the dog understands who is in control of the situation. In the early stages of this training, you may also have to resort to ignoring ALL inappropriate behaviors. After a few weeks of consistent distractive techniques and the dog learning who is in charge, the canine should become oriented to more socially acceptible ways in which to play.

Read on in Chew toys for Dogs.

Bring it to Me

Emily — Tue, 21 Oct 2008 11:38:40 +0000

Dog Tricks – Teach Your Dog To Retrieve

Teaching your dog to run and retrieve is a very basic and easy training command for him to understand. It is one of the easiest of tasks to train your dog to do, such as pick up a newspaper or a piece of mail, and it's fun too!

You can begin the exercise by first showing your puppy or dog how to focus on the area in which you want him to retreat from. You do this by simply pointing to the location with your finger. Your goal here is to get your dog to scope out the exact area while looking for something to bring back to you.

The best way to take care of this first step of retrieve training is to use little bits and pieces of dog food or dog snacks. Take out the food and just sprinkle two or three treats on the ground. Do not let your dog run to eat the food too fast. In fact, you should first train him to sit and stay until released, then you point to the ground and say "pickup", "pickup".

Each time your dog grabs a piece of food, drop another piece behind you and then point while giving the "pickup" command. As you can probably guess, your dog is going to associate the command you are giving him of "pickup" with the notion to look for something to put in his mouth. This part of training does not take long at all, especially if you are using tasty treats and by also training your dog when he is hungry, as this helps to increase his motivation.

The next step is to start throwing smaller non-food items instead of snacks. For example, after you throw a couple of treats and your dog responds to the "pickup" command, surprise him by tossing a small ball and then point and command him to pick it up, in the exact same manner that you did with the dog treats. By this time he should run to pick up the ball without hesitation and even start to bring it back to you. Be sure to praise him each time he does.

Finally, it is time to teach your dog how to drop the object in front of you after he retrieves it. Once your dog has the ball, or whatever object you are using, he should naturally run back to you expecting praise. Give him the "drop it" command and as you pet his head with one hand, take your other hand and pull the object out of his mouth and drop to the ground. Do this as often as you can. Tie the entire process together by starting from the beginning and tossing a ball for him to retrieve. From now on you will enjoy your dog coming back to you and dropping the object right at your feet, every time!

History of the Breed

Emily — Wed, 15 Oct 2008 10:47:52 +0000

Dog Breeders – How To Get The Most From Your Breeder By Educating Yourself

One of the top aspects of being a reputable breeder is that they should know what type of behavior to expect from his puppies as they grow into adulthood, known as temperate.

Although it is easy to predict the future temperament of a litter by observing their parents, the right breeder has the knowledge and understanding of the breed that goes way back to its history. This knowledge and understanding gives the breeder a better insight of his dogs' behavior and temperament. He can tell you why his dog behaves a certain way, its personality, and what drives the dog to do certain things and act the way it does.

A good breeder can also tell you his puppy's strengths and weaknesses, likes and dislikes, and what changes to expect as it gets older (physically and mentally). Does it enjoy being around children? Does it get along with strangers and other animals? Is it needy or independent? What are its grooming and exercise needs? Is it a good watchdog? The right breeder should be able to answer these questions and more.

It is important for him to make sure that you, the potential buyer, are well equipped with the necessary tools and information to create the best home for the puppy. Furthermore, a responsible breeder will want to make sure that the puppy will be happy living in your home and that you all are the ideal family for it.

Arm Yourself With Breed Conformation Information

A breed conformation is defined as a specific way of describing a certain breed; the shape, size, and structure there are common with the standard type of breed.

Before visiting a breeder, you should check the official breed standard of the particular breed you're looking for. The official breed standard is posted on the AKC.org website. By checking the site, you will have the knowledge of what the puppy is supposed to look like before you make the purchase. In addition, you won't be fooled by a dishonest breeder into giving him more money for something that is allegedly a “rare” size, color, or look, but is actually a disqualifying or severe fault.

An honest breeder conforms to the standard of the breed and will only sell puppies with disqualifying or severe faults for a lesser price (up to 50% off). He should let you know that these puppies are less expensive because they are considered as pet-quality dogs and not show-quality dogs.

You'll get more information about dogs in Stay on Track.

Follow my Lead

Emily — Tue, 14 Oct 2008 11:36:49 +0000

Teaching Your Dog To Heel: A Few Ideas

Don't expect your heeling exercises to work smoothly right away or even all the time. Even dogs have good days and bad days. If your dog is having a bad day, he may still execute a near perfect “Sit, Stay.” But he may be too distracted to heel well. That doesn't mean you shouldn't practice. But you might want to cut your practice short this time. Be sure to end on a positive note by doing something your dog will do well even on his bad days. Lessons should end sweetly so that both of you will want to get back to work again the next day.

Of course, if your dog is having a bad day every day, there's something wrong in your training program. How do you train your dog? Are you clear with your instructions? Are you patient, or do you shrug your shoulders and quit in the middle? Are you fair, swift, and forgiving? Are you working long enough? You should practice for at least half an hour a day. Practice ten minutes on your dog's morning walk after he has relieved himself and twenty minutes on his evening walk.

Once a week or so, work for forty-five minutes or an hour at one shot. Even a five month old puppy can handle it if given a rest in the middle. Ask yourself if your expectations are high enough. Your dog can read your attitude, and he can fulfill it, too. He is not dumb. He can learn to work beautifully, no matter what his breed. It's only a matter of time until he heels well. Be patient and keep working.

If you have passed the above criteria and your dog is still having seven bad days a week, perhaps you are not attentive when you train. Your dog will know this, too, and if you don't pay attention to his work, he won't pay attention to it either. Why should he? But if you do give him thirty minutes a day of your full attention, you'll end up with a well-trained dog.

When you are out working and teaching your dog the virtues of heeling, sprinkle in all his other commands as well. It will give the work variety. It will teach your dog to make smooth transitions between commands, that which will make him look like an intelligent, working creature. This magic usually happens about five weeks along in the training. That's the time when many dogs seem to understand the larger picture, when things click. However, your dog may get the point in four weeks - or in eight.

Don't worry about it. Just enjoy it when you see it happen. At that point, when he's attentive without reminders, when he'll heel with few corrections, when he sits automatically whenever you stop, when he executes his commands on verbal cue without additional manipulation, continue to practice, occasionally pushing the time so that he learns to work for a longer period without a break. Also, intersperse play with your training. And, when you're safely indoors and at home, begin some of his off leash puppy work. By now, he's coming along so well that nothing could stop you!

More good information may be found at Stay right Here.

A Comb, A Brush, and a Match

Emily — Mon, 13 Oct 2008 11:04:30 +0000

Different Types Of Combs And Brushes For Your Dog

Unless you are grooming your dog for the show ring, many brushes and combs can substitute for other types. For example, a pin brush can take the place of a slicker brush in some breeds while a hound glove can take the place of a curry comb.

In order to best use each tool for its specific purpose, below is a brief description of what each kind of brush and comb is specifically designed for. Select the tools that you need for your individual breed

1. Natural bristle brush: This brush has bristles that are softer, gentler, and less likely to cause static electricity in a dog's coat than artificial bristles such as those made from nylon. Natural bristle brushes are all-purpose brushes designed to smooth hair and distribute natural oils to the coat.

2. Pin brush: Pin brushes are generally used for long-haired breeds like Shih Tzu and Lhasa Apso, and heavily double-coated breeds like Old English Sheepdogs and Chow Chows. Pin brushes help to detangle long, tangle-prone coats and also work well on hard wire coats for an overall brushing before hand stripping.

3. Slicker brush: This type of brush has densely set wire teeth effective at removing mats and dead coat from long, wire, and curly-coated dogs. They are great when your dog is blowing coat because they efficiently remove large amounts of dead hair, but because they can also pull out some of the live hair, they are not ideal for show dogs who want to maintain lush coats. However, they are ideal for grooming heavy shedders around the house because they get rid of maximum amounts of hair with minimum effort.

4. Rubber curry brush: These oval-shaped rubber brushes are perfect for smooth coats because they polish the coat and remove dead hair, minimizing shedding, but the rounded rubber "bristles" are gentle on the sensitive skin of smooth-coated breeds.

5. Fine, medium, and wide-toothed combs: Fine and medium combs are best for dogs with soft, silky, fine to medium-textured hair. They work through the coat to remove any last traces of tangle, and they also double as flea combs to help remove parasites and flea dirt when present. Wide-toothed combs are better for breeds with very thick, dense coats, but they serve the same purpose: to remove all tangles after brushing. Combs should feel comfortable in your hand, and metal combs with rounded teeth are sturdy and gentle on skin. In dogs prone to static electricity, try a wooden comb.

6. Mat comb, mat splitter, and coat rake: These "combs" are specifically designed to remove mats in long and curly coats. These tools break up matted hair with angled teeth and work best in conjunction with a spray or liquid detangling product.

7. Hound glove: These gloves actually slip over your hand. They are covered on one side with natural bristles. Rub these gloves over your smooth-coated dog to remove dead hair efficiently, brightening and shining the coat.

To discover more great insights into grooming and training your dog, read Time for a Bath.

A Bit of Respect, Please

Emily — Sun, 12 Oct 2008 11:19:44 +0000

Respect Other People's Fear Of Dogs Through Leash Control

When dog owners have poor leash mechanics and control over walking his or her pet, their dog will invariably pull toward strangers. Some strangers are fearful when dogs approach them in this manner. Owners make the mistake of trying to comfort a person who is fearful by saying, "It's okay, my dog is friendly, she won't bite." But this is not a comforting response to someone who is fearful of dogs or just doesn't like dogs near them. You can make the person feel more comfortable by using your leash to sit your dog at your side and giving the person some space to pass. When a person sees a pulling dog and an owner being pulled off balance, the perception is lack of control.

By having your dog sit at your side, you are exhibiting to others that your dog is well trained and can be controlled. Senior citizens and parents with kids are generally more apprehensive when dogs pull too close. A pulling dog, especially if it is a big dog, can be seen as aggressive rather than friendly.

Also use this maneuver if your dog is pulling to greet a strange dog. Your dog may be friendly, but never assume a strange dog is friendly. Sometimes the consequences of a dog pulling toward a strange dog can be dangerous if the strange dog is aggressive or has a mean streak.

Be patient with yourself as you learn leash mechanics. Leash handling is like learning to drive a car or playing an instrument - it will feel a little awkward at first, but with a little practice you will improve. When puppies and dogs are out of control when out for a walk, it's because the owner has no knowledge of leash handling. Use the leash as a tool of communication as you lead your puppy on your walks.

Many owners frustrate or confuse their dogs because of poor leash mechanics. The dog will only do what you are directing him to do. If you don't know how to maneuver your dog, don't expect your dog to read your mind. You will only frustrate your dog. Frustrated dogs either become more aggressive or learn to tune you out all together.

Smart leash handling is essential in the city, particularly in tight, congested areas. By learning how to maneuver your dog on leash, you not only keep your dog safe at your side, but you also are practicing good dog owner etiquette. Your dog won't be a nuisance to other people and other dogs that you meet along the way.

For a different perspective continue reading Making the "right" Turn with your Dog.

How to Teach your dog to be "Tricky"

Emily — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 10:45:43 +0000

Dog Training: What Is The Best Way To Teach Your Dog New Tricks?

When teaching fun and useful tricks, keep your training sessions short and sweet, no more than five minutes each, and repeat the sessions one to four times during the day. For example, some days I'm busy and I only get one lesson in. Other days I have time for two or three. My dogs are up for anything and yours will learn, too, as long as you're positive and use a positive step-by-step approach.

It is better to schedule training around feeding times. For example, before breakfast I'll do a lesson. Both my dogs love treats, and since they are hungry they're even more spunky. I end the lesson on a positive note and reward them with a yummy meal. Good dogs!

Always Use The Step-By-Step Approach

You might be asking, “what is the best step-by-step approach?” The answer is fairly simple. Each new routine has steps to follow, and you need to perfect each step before moving on to the next. But to give you a quick example, suppose you want to teach your dog how to jump through a hoop. The steps are:

Step One: Use a broom to create a low jump across a threshold, like a doorway. Prop up the broom with two objects of equal height, such as soup cans or, for a small dog, toilet paper rolls. Let your dog sniff the setup, then take him five strides and command "Over" as you take the jump together. Good dog! When you've perfected this you're ready for Step Two.

Step Two: Show your dog the hoop, placing it flat on the ground so that your dog can step around and sniff it. Holding the hoop at ground level, lure your dog through with a toy or treat. As he walks through, he should hear the command "Through."

Step Three: Recruit someone to hold the hoop at the broom. The bottom of the hoop should be at the same level as the broom. Take your dog back down the runway, instruct "Over-through," and run up to the obstacle and encourage your dog through.

Step Four: Continue to work in the same threshold. Remove the broom. Encourage "Through." Good dog! Slowly raise the hoop to the height of your dog's elbow (or hock). Once your dog perfects it here, you can branch out to other thresholds in the house. Got that? Now you're ready for the big time! Encourage your dog to jump through wherever the hoop is placed.

So, teaching how to jump through a hoop is a four-step program. Because your dog can't master an entire routine in five minutes, you'll need to isolate each step and build on your dog's successes.

For more great information, check out More Tricks for You and the Dog.

It's a Private thing

Emily — Sun, 21 Sep 2008 17:36:29 +0000

Dog Training: How to Train Your Dog to Stop Licking “Private Places”

A nose thrust may be acceptable among dogs, but it's not so pleasant for the two-legged visitors in their lives. Every dog can learn to greet people in more acceptable ways. The secret is to teach them an alternative to that ancient, secret handshake they know so well.

Start with a Shake

The standard greeting among people is the handshake, and dogs can learn it too. Have your dog sit, then stick out your hand, putting it slightly below her nose. Most dogs will instinctively raise a paw to meet it. If your dog doesn't get it and won't raise a paw, pick up her paw for her and give it a shake. Then say, "Good shake!" and give her something to eat. Keep practicing, and have other people do it too. As long as there's the potential for food, dogs will remember this trick and try it every chance they get.

Take her Everywhere

Dogs spend most of their time at home, and when they do get out they're so excited and hungry for information that they can hardly keep their noses to themselves. Take them out in public more often so they meet a lot of new people. Eventually, they'll start getting used to everyone and everything, in part because they'll have collected so much information in the past that they won't feel the burning need to collect more. This will make it easier for them to remember to sit and shake rather than lunge and sniff.

Quick Tip

Dogs despise the smell of minty breath spray, and you can take advantage of this to discourage them from sniffing people. When you're going to be in a situation in which your dog will be meeting new people, arm yourself beforehand with a canister of breath spray. When she moves in for the inevitable sniff, quickly spritz some of the spray toward her mouth. Aim downward so that the irritating spray doesn't hit her eyes. The unpleasant smell and taste, combined with the psst sound, is a very strong discouragement.

This type of "aversion therapy" works because dogs link the unpleasant experience with the behavior that caused it, and the memory will stay with them. For the most part, however, dogs learn fastest when they're praised for doing things right, rather than scolded for doing them wrong. So reward your dog well when she sits and shakes. You should even reward her when she does nothing at all. As long as she's not sniffing, she's being a good dog and deserves a special treat.

The Underlying Anger Issue

Emily — Thu, 11 Sep 2008 11:23:22 +0000

Aggression – What is Territorial Aggression & Why Does It Make A Dog So Angry?

All dogs have one form of aggression or another and to some degree, it is perfectly natural. However, since our pets are domesticated then there is a certain level of calmness that we should expect from them. The most common aggression behavioral problem that dogs display is called "territorial aggression". To sum up the definition of territorial aggression, it simply describes a dog that goes absolutely crazy whenever a stranger approaches their home.

What encourages a dog to display such aggressiveness?

As we stated earlier, it is natural for your dog to want to defend his home and make it known that the area is his territory. However, the following scenarios may cause your dog's aggression over his territory to escalate:

1. Aggression is reinforced in a dog whenever, for example, a delivery person approaches the house and then after dropping off a package he leaves the territory. Your dog actually thinks that he drove the stranger away and this in itself creates more aggression.

2. When riding in a car, a dog with extreme territorial aggression tends to bark incessantly at every person he sees and every moving thing outside the window. He is saying to them "stay away, this is my territory!" And of course nobody is going to approach the car so your dog actually thinks he is "winning". Therefore, the dog will bark even lower to celebrate his victory.

3. Another very common reason why a dog may increase his levels of barking and aggression is whenever he is acting up and barking at the door (for whatever reason) and the owner starts to yell at him in order to shut him up. Most dog owners do not realize that yelling at their dog is doing nothing but creating more aggression. A dog will think that you are "supporting" his aggression towards the approaching stranger or delivery person.

4. A fourth reason why a dog may have heightened levels of territorial aggression is whenever he is isolated or locked up when there are guests and strangers inside the house. When you first think about it, it seems very reasonable to take your barking dog and lock him up in a room or crate whenever you have guests. However, during this time, your dog can smell the "intruders" and since he can do nothing about it, is aggression levels can rise dramatically, causing stress and anxiety, which of course leads to more behavioral problems.

Never too Early to Think about Safety

Emily — Mon, 25 Aug 2008 12:35:09 +0000

Dog Safety: 10 Christmas Tree Decorating Tips For Your Dog In Mind

Creating a holiday tree that is both beautiful to look at for you and unattractive to your dog is a special challenge. Here are some suggestions to keep your tree pet-friendly.

1. Tree water at the base of live trees can be harmful if preservative chemicals have been added to prolong the life of the tree. Keep your dog from drinking the water by covering the tree basin with foil or a tree skirt.

2. Place dog-safe ornaments near the bottom of the tree in case your dog decides to use the ornaments as playthings.

3. Tie up loose electrical cords of the lights used to decorate the tree and keep them concealed by attaching them with wire or cord to the trunk of the tree. End-to-end lights eliminate individual cords dangling from the tree that might entice your dog to chew them.

4. If you have lots of tree lights that are not end to end, purchase a power strip in which to plug the lights. Attach the strip to the tree trunk at a level that is higher than the height of your dog. As a result, you will have only one heavy-duty power cord running from the tree to the outlet instead of several flimsy cords from single strings of lights.

5. To prevent your dog from knocking over your holiday tree, anchor it with cord or wire to the ceiling directly above the tree's trunk. Don't attach it with wire to a wall behind the tree because your dog could get caught in the wire if be darts behind the tree.

6. Spray the tower branches of the tree with bitter apple, cinnamon, lemon, eucalyptus, or other unappealing scents.

7. Hang your ornaments with ribbons rather than hooks to keep your dog from accidentally swallowing something that could get lodged in his throat.

8. Do not use tinsel or angel hair on your tree. Angel hair, made of glass fiber, and tinsel, made of metal, can cause internal damage if your dog swallows any.

9. Avoid decorating your tree with strings of berries or other edible ornaments - many are harmful if swallowed. The string on which they are attached can cause damage to your dog's intestines if swallowed, and a dog, eager to get to the "treats," could knock over the tree.

10. If you like, decorate a small, artificial tree for your dog with items he will find appealing, such as doggie biscuits and dog toys. Hide the tree until you are ready for your dog to open his presents.

Remember that if you begin by introducing the dog to holiday hazards early in your relationship, you are far less likely to have problems with destructive behavior or illness related to decorations. Patience, kindness, consideration and respect all play tremendous roles in forging the positive bonds that create life long memories with your canine companion.