May 10th, 2009

Yet another Trick

Guess what?  Were you aware that once you have taught your dog the basics of obedience training, it is actually not a very big step to teaching your dog a couple of tricks.

Nearly all of the nifty “tricks” that people teach their dogs, including those that professional dog actors are taught, are simply based upon the very rudimentary skills that your dog learns at a young age.

Remember that if you want to engage your dog in learning a behavior that might otherwise be outside of his normal actions and behaviors, it is in your best interest to make it somewhat of a game, at least at the start.

A successfully taught trick hinges predominantly on consistency, rewards and ultimately shaping your dog’s behavior to the desired cues in order to do the trick well. 

If you offer your dog a treat for each approximation to the ultimate desired behavior, the dog will quickly learn what to do.  Gradually you are able to get your dog to perform more directly to your commands and if you are patient, your dog will be a grrrrreat showman!

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January 13th, 2009

First this way and Then that Way

Dog Training: How To Train Your Dog To Change Direction When Walking

After you and your dog have pretty much gotten the hang of heeling, your next step is to introduce your dog to changes of direction while heeling. You find out about the three essential turns - a right turn, an about-turn to the right, and a left turn.
 
Turning Right: To stay with you when you are making a right turn, your dog needs to speed up. And, at this stage in your training, he is not yet giving you 100 percent of his attention, and you are going to anticipate that he needs help with the right turn.
 
If you want your dog to pay attention to you, you have to pay attention to your dog. Learning to anticipate what he is going to do is the first step to successful heeling.
 
Just before you make the turn, enthusiastically say his name, make the turn, and keep moving. Using his name will cause him to look up at you and he will notice that you are changing direction, which will cause him to stay with you. Without giving him that cue, chances are that as you make the turn and go one way, he will keep going the other way.
 
About-Turn: An about-turn is a right turn times two. When you make your turn, keep your feet together so your dog can keep up. As you did for the right turn, use his name just before you make the turn to encourage him to stay with you.
 
In the event your dog has a particularly difficult time remaining at your side for the right or about-turn, you can use a treat or other object of interest to him to help guide him around. The treat is held in your right hand as you are heeling. Before you make the turn, show it to your dog by bringing the treat directly in front of his nose and using it to guide him around the turn, then give him the treat.
 
This approach has a potential drawback. Some dogs become overly stimulated when they know you have a treat in your hand. Make no mistake about it, he knows. If you see that your dog becomes difficult to control under such circumstances, you may want to eliminate use of the treat. The hassle is not worth the potential benefit.
 
Turning Left: In order to make the left turn without crowding, your dog needs to slow down as you make the turn and then resume normal speed after you made the turn. Just before you make the turn, slow down and with your left hand draw back on the leash, make the turn, and resume your normal brisk pace.
 
Find out more when you read My Dog is Learning Some New Tricks.

 

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January 2nd, 2009

Walking your dog with a Leash

An Exercise in Training and Practice

Teaching your dog to walk on a lead or leash is an exercise requiring training on the part of both you and your dog.  You must have the dog walking beside the owner without overtaking him or pulling.  Walking your dog should definitely not be an exercise in stretching or pulling, but rather a simple task.

The dog lead or leash is an ideal way in which to maintain control of the dog and communicate information to the dog.  Each and every movement, your change of direction and the contraction in your arm are all ways in which you can signal directions to the dog without it looking at you or even having to take a verbal instruction, once the animal has been properly trained.

You can begin the lead training when the dog is a puppy, getting the dog used to wearing of a collar first and then adding the leash to the combination.  Practice this at home, associating it with pleasant and playful times such as petting, games and rewards.  Try to avoid having the dog wear a collar and leash when you are away from it, as this association will consequently associate the restrains to its freedom with your departure from the home.

Once the puppy has achieved a level of comfort with wearing the collar and leash, and is able to walk about comfortably, you can move the next phase of the training in which you are able to make corrections to the dog’s actions.  If your dog pulls too strongly this will indicate a needed correction with a verbal correction,"NO."

You should not pick a retractable dog lead that would prevent a proper avenue of communication with the dog.  In the initial stages of training, a longer lead might be more appropriate and as the dog advances, the lead can be shortened.

Be patient, kind and consistent during all phases of the collar and leash training.  With time, rewards and consistency, your dog will be well behaved and safe.

Don’t forget to visit Leads and Leashes.

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December 20th, 2008

Pet Etiquette for the Holiday Season

A Well Behaved Dog Guest is only SOMETIMES Welcome

Often we become so attached to our canine companions that we don’t think about NOT taking them along with us when we travel.  But, there are times when it is just better to consider traveling by yourself and making the holiday season with your beloved canine friend, something that you share in the comfort of your own surroundings.

If you do plan to take your furry friend for visits at the holidays it is prudent to check ahead with your host.  Not everyplace that welcomes you will do the same with your dog, even it the dog is very well behaved.

Better Left at Home, Sometimes
Crowds often annoy a dog and they may find themselves getting snappish, growly and short tempered when otherwise nicely temperamented.

Fancy holiday foods, while they are treats for us, can make a dog very ill.

Decorations may end up being tempting treats for your dog and ribbons, cords and tinsel pose health threats.

If They Go With You…
Pack a "Dog-E Bag" that includes every possible essential that you can think of for your dog friend and try to remember to include a special surprise, whether a toy or a small treat.

Take medications, vet records, leash, collar and additional identification.

Pack a gift for your dog hosts, both human and canine.

Don’t leave your dog unattended in the house with the host dog.  Things can happen and the results may not be what you had anticipated.

Happy howl-i-days and remember to give your dog a bit of extra attention at this time of the year.

 

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December 5th, 2008

A Walk about Town

Walking Your Dog: City Dog Walking

Navigating Around Obstacles
 
Once you start walking your puppy, you will be amazed at the obstacles that will crop up as you walk down the street. Light posts, parking meters, bus and stop signs, bike rails, waste barrels, fire hydrants, groups of people waiting for a bus or getting off a bus, along with other dogs and people are only some of the obstacles you and your puppy will face.
 
These obstacles may not seem like a big deal until you combine them with pedestrians and groups of people congregating on the sidewalk. And one of the best ways to avoid large groups of oncoming people is to navigate your puppy onto the curb side of lights posts and parking meters.
 
Moving Obstacles
 
Also be aware of moving obstacles such as bicyclists, in-line skaters, kids running and dogs walking on or off-leash ahead of their owners. When approaching moving obstacles, don’t have your puppy on a long lead. You don’t want your puppy or your lead getting wrapped around a moving obstacle.
 
Your best action with a moving obstacle is to shorten the lead and give it room to pass. Don’t get tense by choking your puppy with too tight of a lead. Another good option is to stand still with your puppy and relax while the moving obstacle passes you by.
 
Safety Zones
 
A safety zone is any area that widens the space between your puppy and an oncoming object. It can be an entrance way to a store, the curb side of a parking meter, or an area that’s off to the side. The curb side of parking meters are perfect safety zones because most people don’t walk on that part of the sidewalk. Think of safety zones as a way of controlling your space on the street. For example, if you see a couple of kids on bikes racing down the sidewalk or a person running, you can navigate to a safety zone and keep you and your puppy in a safe position. This is the best way to avoid accidents or close calls.
 
By controlling your space, you also send a strong message to other owners coming by with their dogs that you are protecting yourself and your puppy. You gain control of your space and this can diffuse a tense situation, particularly if a full-grown dog does not like your puppy.
 
You can also use the safety zone method if you see another puppy owner approaching and you are in a hurry and do not wish to spend the time having the puppies mingle with each other. Here’s a good safety tip: Puppies on leashes should never play with each other. Their leashes will get tangled and you will put your puppy in a precarious situation when you have to drop your lead to get out of the entanglement.
 
Don’t forget to read more in Turn This Way…and That Way Too.

 

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November 23rd, 2008

Skin has feelings: Part 1

Special Care for Grooming Sensitive Skin: Part I

When grooming any type of breed, you have to be very careful not to injure the skin. Slicker brushes, clippers, and scissors can all cause serious injury to a dog’s skin. For dogs with sensitive skin, use tools lightly and take special care when grooming a dog with skin problems. Skin conditions are for a vet to deal with, and not for the groomer to try and solve. Skin problems that can be caused by or aggravated by grooming include the following:
 
Allergies: Many dogs develop allergies from food, external environmental sources, or inhaled substances. In dogs, allergies are most likely to show on the skin. The most common type of allergy in dogs is the flea allergy dermatitis, which is an allergic reaction to flea saliva. Allergies can develop as rashes, hives, severe itching, and/or baldness.   Never brush over rashes or hives. If hair is tangled, work through gently with a comb. Allergies can trigger a nasty cycle as they cause itching, which causes scratching and licking, which causes more irritation. Even after the fleas are eliminated, the negative effects on a dog’s skin can last for a long time. Always consult your vet for any signs or symptoms of allergic reaction. Your vet can advise you about how to properly groom hair over these areas.
 
Brush Burn and Clipper Burn: These skin conditions are a direct result of grooming. Brush burn is caused by brushing too hard, damaging the skin. Clipper burn is a result of allowing a clipper to become too hot, which occurs with extended use, burning the dog. Not only can such grooming mishaps be prevented, but when they occur, they can also make future grooming sessions extremely difficult for both the groomer as well as the dogs.
 
Always Brush Gently: This is especially true with a wire slicker brush, which can be sharp. Short, gentle strokes are better than long, hard ones to work out tangles. When brushing vigorously down to the skin, use a natural bristle brush and save the slicker brush for working out mats. Also use caution with pin brushes. 
 
Turn Off Clippers Frequently: Have spare blades handy when the blades you are using get too hot, or use a cooling spray for your clipper. Touch the clipper blade frequently to make sure it isn’t too hot. Never run clippers over sensitive areas, like the chin and neck more than twice, especially when using a #10 or #15 blade.

Read on to learn more about skin and coat problems: Skin has feelings: Part 2.

 
 
 
 
 

 

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October 24th, 2008

Getting over the Hump

Why do they Do That?

One of the most obvious reasons that dogs hump is sexual.  Males that have not been neutered are able to perform humping as displaced sexual behavior.  Some dogs continue to hump even after having been neutered, possibly for purely pleasurable reasons.  However, there are actually other reasons that dogs do this.  It may be either some genetic background or else, it is a display of dominance.

The humping behavior is seen in both genders of dogs and is sometimes merely a sign of aggression or a desire for dominance in the hierarchy of the family, whether human or canine.  It is the dominant dog who gets the right to breed with receptive females.

Females that display this behavior is something a bit less common but not to be overlooked. 

As early as possible, if this behavior is evident, it should be corrected.  The "object" of the dog’s affection should be removed and the dog should be distracted.  This may take consistency and patience.  In extreme cases, it is essential that the human establish a dominant role to make sure that the dog understands who is in control of the situation.  In the early stages of this training, you may also have to resort to ignoring ALL inappropriate behaviors.  After a few weeks of consistent distractive techniques and the dog learning who is in charge, the canine should become oriented to more socially acceptible ways in which to play.

Read on in Chew toys for Dogs.

 

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October 21st, 2008

Bring it to Me

Dog Tricks – Teach Your Dog To Retrieve

Teaching your dog to run and retrieve is a very basic and easy training command for him to understand. It is one of the easiest of tasks to train your dog to do, such as pick up a newspaper or a piece of mail, and it’s fun too!
 
You can begin the exercise by first showing your puppy or dog how to focus on the area in which you want him to retreat from. You do this by simply pointing to the location with your finger. Your goal here is to get your dog to scope out the exact area while looking for something to bring back to you.
 
The best way to take care of this first step of retrieve training is to use little bits and pieces of dog food or dog snacks. Take out the food and just sprinkle two or three treats on the ground. Do not let your dog run to eat the food too fast. In fact, you should first train him to sit and stay until released, then you point to the ground and say "pickup", "pickup".
 
Each time your dog grabs a piece of food, drop another piece behind you and then point while giving the "pickup" command. As you can probably guess, your dog is going to associate the command you are giving him of "pickup" with the notion to look for something to put in his mouth. This part of training does not take long at all, especially if you are using tasty treats and by also training your dog when he is hungry, as this helps to increase his motivation.
 
The next step is to start throwing smaller non-food items instead of snacks. For example, after you throw a couple of treats and your dog responds to the "pickup" command, surprise him by tossing a small ball and then point and command him to pick it up, in the exact same manner that you did with the dog treats. By this time he should run to pick up the ball without hesitation and even start to bring it back to you. Be sure to praise him each time he does.
 
Finally, it is time to teach your dog how to drop the object in front of you after he retrieves it. Once your dog has the ball, or whatever object you are using, he should naturally run back to you expecting praise. Give him the "drop it" command and as you pet his head with one hand, take your other hand and pull the object out of his mouth and drop to the ground. Do this as often as you can. Tie the entire process together by starting from the beginning and tossing a ball for him to retrieve. From now on you will enjoy your dog coming back to you and dropping the object right at your feet, every time!
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October 15th, 2008

History of the Breed

Dog Breeders – How To Get The Most From Your Breeder By Educating Yourself

One of the top aspects of being a reputable breeder is that they should know what type of behavior to expect from his puppies as they grow into adulthood, known as temperate.
 
Although it is easy to predict the future temperament of a litter by observing their parents, the right breeder has the knowledge and understanding of the breed that goes way back to its history. This knowledge and understanding gives the breeder a better insight of his dogs’ behavior and temperament. He can tell you why his dog behaves a certain way, its personality, and what drives the dog to do certain things and act the way it does.
 
A good breeder can also tell you his puppy’s strengths and weaknesses, likes and dislikes, and what changes to expect as it gets older (physically and mentally). Does it enjoy being around children? Does it get along with strangers and other animals? Is it needy or independent? What are its grooming and exercise needs? Is it a good watchdog? The right breeder should be able to answer these questions and more.
 
It is important for him to make sure that you, the potential buyer, are well equipped with the necessary tools and information to create the best home for the puppy. Furthermore, a responsible breeder will want to make sure that the puppy will be happy living in your home and that you all are the ideal family for it.
 
Arm Yourself With Breed Conformation Information
 
A breed conformation is defined as a specific way of describing a certain breed; the shape, size, and structure there are common with the standard type of breed. 
 
Before visiting a breeder, you should check the official breed standard of the particular breed you’re looking for. The official breed standard is posted on the AKC.org website. By checking the site, you will have the knowledge of what the puppy is supposed to look like before you make the purchase. In addition, you won’t be fooled by a dishonest breeder into giving him more money for something that is allegedly a “rare” size, color, or look, but is actually a disqualifying or severe fault.
 
An honest breeder conforms to the standard of the breed and will only sell puppies with disqualifying or severe faults for a lesser price (up to 50% off). He should let you know that these puppies are less expensive because they are considered as pet-quality dogs and not show-quality dogs.
You’ll get more information about dogs in Stay on Track.
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October 14th, 2008

Follow my Lead

Teaching Your Dog To Heel: A Few Ideas

Don’t expect your heeling exercises to work smoothly right away or even all the time. Even dogs have good days and bad days. If your dog is having a bad day, he may still execute a near perfect “Sit, Stay.” But he may be too distracted to heel well. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t practice. But you might want to cut your practice short this time. Be sure to end on a positive note by doing something your dog will do well even on his bad days. Lessons should end sweetly so that both of you will want to get back to work again the next day.
 
Of course, if your dog is having a bad day every day, there’s something wrong in your training program. How do you train your dog? Are you clear with your instructions? Are you patient, or do you shrug your shoulders and quit in the middle? Are you fair, swift, and forgiving? Are you working long enough? You should practice for at least half an hour a day. Practice ten minutes on your dog’s morning walk after he has relieved himself and twenty minutes on his evening walk.
 
Once a week or so, work for forty-five minutes or an hour at one shot. Even a five month old puppy can handle it if given a rest in the middle. Ask yourself if your expectations are high enough. Your dog can read your attitude, and he can fulfill it, too. He is not dumb. He can learn to work beautifully, no matter what his breed. It’s only a matter of time until he heels well. Be patient and keep working.
 
If you have passed the above criteria and your dog is still having seven bad days a week, perhaps you are not attentive when you train. Your dog will know this, too, and if you don’t pay attention to his work, he won’t pay attention to it either. Why should he? But if you do give him thirty minutes a day of your full attention, you’ll end up with a well-trained dog.
 
When you are out working and teaching your dog the virtues of heeling, sprinkle in all his other commands as well. It will give the work variety. It will teach your dog to make smooth transitions between commands, that which will make him look like an intelligent, working creature. This magic usually happens about five weeks along in the training. That’s the time when many dogs seem to understand the larger picture, when things click. However, your dog may get the point in four weeks - or in eight.
 
Don’t worry about it. Just enjoy it when you see it happen. At that point, when he’s attentive without reminders, when he’ll heel with few corrections, when he sits automatically whenever you stop, when he executes his commands on verbal cue without additional manipulation, continue to practice, occasionally pushing the time so that he learns to work for a longer period without a break. Also, intersperse play with your training. And, when you’re safely indoors and at home, begin some of his off leash puppy work. By now, he’s coming along so well that nothing could stop you!
 
More good information may be found at Stay right Here.
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