May 26th, 2008

The Dog Does Bark

Barking: A Watchdog’s Most Important Weapon

A watchdog’s function is to sound the alarm. A dog’s bark carries quite well and makes the perfect warning signal. Indeed, barking’s original function was to rally the pack to respond to a problem or a possible intruder, and it comes naturally to most dogs regardless of size - if you want a watchdog, you want any alert dog that will bark, not one that is lethargic and placid.
 
Scottish author and poet Sir Walter Scott once received some advice on the matter of watchdogs from a very credible source. Scott began his career as a lawyer working in his father’s law office. His debut at the bar involved the successful defense of a burglar. The burglar, who was in fact guilty of both the crime for which he was charged and several others as well, shared with Scott the following bit of wisdom: "Always keep a small dog that barks, rather than a large dog, which you think may serve as a more formidable guard, but may spend most of its time sleeping. Size doesn’t matter, just the sound." Scott took his advice and always kept terriers, which are vigilant little dogs, always ready to give voice at any sound or at anyone’s approach.
 
The first conscious use of dogs for their behavioral characteristics was most likely as watchdogs and guard dogs. For prehistoric people, the world was quite a hostile place. Various animals stalked humans as prey, and campsites were easy targets. A stealthy predator, especially one that attacked at night when the camp slept, could be quite dangerous.
 
Equally dangerous were attacks from other bands of humans, either because of intertribal warfare or to capture food, goods, women, or children. But the dogs hanging around the campsites on the lookout for food scraps quite naturally caused a commotion whenever a predator or band of strange humans approached. Aside from alerting the residents of the camp in time for them to respond, the dogs’ warning could even cause approaching threats to seek less wary prey elsewhere. As it became obvious that they made the camps safer, dogs came to serve not only as scavengers but as guardians as well.
 
It is highly likely that the first specific behavioral characteristic that humans selected in dogs was the tendency to bark. The first domestication of dogs probably involved the adoption of wolf or jackal cubs, and those that proved themselves to be good watchdogs by barking at any disturbance were more likely to be kept and bred by their owners. Those that did not serve this function as well could still be served as dinner.
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May 18th, 2008

Which Method is the Best?

Choosing Dog Training Methods

Before choosing a particular training method, carefully examine the technique to ensure that it will communicate proper associations. Certain methods may not communicate what you intend. A dog-aggressive Akita was enrolled in a training program that his owner thought was reputable. The trainer convinced the owner that the only way to break the Akita of aggression toward other dogs was to let a more dominant dog put him in his place. The trainer’s dog displayed dominance toward other dogs, so she placed him in a room with the Akita and left the two dogs to work things out. When the trainer heard a window crashing, she opened the door to find that her dog was injured, and the Akita had been richly rewarded for his aggressive behavior with a nice victory under his collar.
 
If this method does not make sense to you, it probably won’t make sense to the dog, either. One trainer sent around a flyer giving free advice to the general public on how to stop dogs from digging. The trainer suggested filling the newly dug hole with water and taking the dog over to the hole by the scruff of the neck to dunk his head in the water filled-hole. The next sentence on this flyer cautioned the owner that the dunking probably would not stop the dog from digging; instead, forcing the dog down to the water by the scruff of the neck was a demonstration of dominance, a root cure-all for problem behavior. The trainer thought through the method far enough to figure out that the water would have no effect on future digging. Unfortunately, he did not explain that the dog would learn to mistrust his owner for trying to drown him. Shortly after this flyer was distributed, another trainer was indicted for animal abuse for employing this very correction technique.
 
Occasionally, even thinking through a method does not result in a clear understanding of how it works. One day a fellow drove up to class in a pickup with his dog in the back. The dog trainer explained to him that it was very dangerous to have the dog in the back of an open pickup. He went through the normal lecture on how the dog’s nose and eyes could be damaged from debris in the air, the danger of the dog being thrown out of the truck in an accident, etc. The fellow proudly said, "I fixed the dog from jumping out of the truck. He was jumping out and I would throw him back in. We did this for five or six times when I finally got really mad and threw him in the truck for the seventh time and stuffed a piece of horse manure in his mouth for good measure. After that the dog never jumped out again, and the next time he does something bad, I am going to use that manure trick again."
 
It was really hard to determine if the dog stopped jumping out of the truck because he got tired of being thrown back in, or if he was grateful for the gourmet horse manure treat. If you are not sure about exactly how or why a method works, it is probably best to avoid the technique altogether. Even the most popular methods use techniques that may not be suited for every breed or temperament of dog. A trainer who evaluates each method based on the efficacy of the associations and motivators will be better equipped to match the appropriate obedience method with the dog’s individual temperament.
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May 9th, 2008

Use your Eye Power

Developing Your Leadership Through Eye Contact

Every wolf pack has a leader, also referred to as the alpha figure. This wolf, sometimes a male, sometimes a female, controls many aspects of pack life, including, to a degree, defecation and urination rights and spots. Dogs, of course, are directly descended from wolves and now live in human packs. Problems arise when an individual dog, either through his genetic makeup or improper training by his owner, comes to think of himself as the leader of the pack.
 
If your dog thinks that he is the leader, you are in trouble. How can you know? Usually if you have behavior problems with your dog, you are not considered the leader no matter how you think you are viewed by your pet.
 
One way to establish your leadership or “Alphahood” is to simply get your dog’s eye. You might think that your dog looks at you quite frequently, but take a moment to think about the terms. They are usually the dog’s. Does your dog look at you but only when he feels like it? That’s not eye contact. That is the dog looking at you because he wants something. You can establish eye contact on your terms by formalizing the look-at-me process.
 
Take your dog, on leash, and have him “Sit.” Hold a little upward tension on the lead and bend down and touch your dog’s muzzle and immediately bring your hand up to your eyes. At the same time, make a clicking sound and say something like, "Laddy, look up here at me right now."
 
Don’t just say the dog’s name or "Laddy, look." It won’t be enough to get the dog to lock eyes with you. What you’re aiming for is about three to four seconds of solid eye contact when the dog looks up at you with an attitude of "your wish is my command." Make sure that after you touch his muzzle and then your eyes that you straighten up right away so that the dog truly looks up at you and not you down at the dog.
 
Once you have the lock, end the moment with some light verbal (not physical) praise such as, "Good boy. Laddy!" Then turn and go about your business. Do not worry about leaving the dog sitting there wondering, "What was that all about?"
 
Your dog will soon realize that what it is about is “look at me when I ask you to look, watch me, get out of your own world and into mine.” This is a wonderful foundation for any puppy or older dog (especially if house-soiling is a problem) because the eye contact starts to overflow into his regular, daily life so that he looks at you from across a room. Then you can catch your dog’s eye more readily to direct him to not do something.

Also read Wherever You May Roam.

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May 3rd, 2008

Getting Around in the Big City

City Dog Walking: Handling Obstacles & Safety Zones

Navigating Around Obstacles
 
Once you start walking your puppy, you will be amazed at the obstacles that will crop up as you walk down the street. Light posts, parking meters, bus and stop signs, bike rails, waste barrels, fire hydrants, groups of people waiting for a bus or getting off a bus, along with other dogs and people are only some of the obstacles you and your puppy will face.
 
These obstacles may not seem like a big deal until you combine them with pedestrians and groups of people congregating on the sidewalk. And one of the best ways to avoid large groups of oncoming people is to navigate your puppy onto the curb side of lights posts and parking meters.
 
Moving Obstacles
 
Also be aware of moving obstacles such as bicyclists, in-line skaters, kids running and dogs walking on or off-leash ahead of their owners. When approaching moving obstacles, don’t have your puppy on a long lead. You don’t want your puppy or your lead getting wrapped around a moving obstacle.
 
Your best action with a moving obstacle is to shorten the lead and give it room to pass. Don’t get tense by choking your puppy with too tight of a lead. Another good option is to stand still with your puppy and relax while the moving obstacle passes you by.
 
Safety Zones
 
A safety zone is any area that widens the space between your puppy and an oncoming object. It can be an entrance way to a store, the curb side of a parking meter, or an area that’s off to the side. The curb side of parking meters are perfect safety zones because most people don’t walk on that part of the sidewalk. Think of safety zones as a way of controlling your space on the street. For example, if you see a couple of kids on bikes racing down the sidewalk or a person running, you can navigate to a safety zone and keep you and your puppy in a safe position. This is the best way to avoid accidents or close calls.
 
By controlling your space, you also send a strong message to other owners coming by with their dogs that you are protecting yourself and your puppy. You gain control of your space and this can diffuse a tense situation, particularly if a full-grown dog does not like your puppy.
 
You can also use the safety zone method if you see another puppy owner approaching and you are in a hurry and do not wish to spend the time having the puppies mingle with each other. Here’s a good safety tip: Puppies on leashes should never play with each other. Their leashes will get tangled and you will put your puppy in a precarious situation when you have to drop your lead to get out of the entanglement.
 
You will want to get a few tips on Quick Dog Discipline for helping you out.

 

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