April 28th, 2008

It’s Show Time

The Joy of Attending A Live Dog Show

The atmosphere of most any dog show is that if extreme excitement and happiness, almost too exciting, especially during the early hours of the show day. Everyone arriving is wearing a smile, even if a bit forced and tense, everyone is wearing his or her best manners as well as best clothes. They are waving hello to friends they haven’t seen for almost a year as well as to those they saw just last night. Most are hurrying to find a spot to place their equipment so that they can rush to get their car parked, rush to get a ringside seat, so that they can place an article on it, and rush back to prepare their dogs for the big entrance into the ring. 
 
Meanwhile, under the handler’s tent the job of cleaning up the dogs after their journey goes on with a last-minute check on trimming, a last-minute check of the show lead, a bit more combing and brushing, with many fingers crossed and silent prayers being said. Thermos bottles of steaming hot coffee are very much in evidence, so much so that a crate top or table top will be completely covered with plastic or paper cups, some full of coffee, some emptied. 
 
On one table a dog is being sprayed with something that smells like perfume but which is actually just giving a shine to the coat. Another dog will be getting a rubdown with something that smells like alcohol. It is being used to wipe away the dust which has been attracted to the dark sleek coat. Nearby, someone is furiously throwing medicinally scented talcum powder on the snow-white coat of his charge who either is still wet from a bath or who did not get a bath and whose owner is now trying to whiten him with the powder(This powder must be completely removed before the dog is shown).
 
Almost every crate or table has a bucket or pan of water setting on it or under it or next to it, and frequently a nervous person will drop some piece of equipment into it or stumble over it and get his new suit all splashed. Every so often a dog will look longingly at a bucket of water and get tired of waiting until it is offered to him, jump down from his crate, and help himself until the owner is able to reach him and place him on the table again, where he must then be all dried off with a towel.
 
Occasionally you will hear the shouts of congratulations from a happy group gathering to look over a dog who has just made a nice win, and occasionally you will hear a warning cry go up from someone who did not carefully lock the exercise pen and from which one or two or more dogs are making their escape, or from someone whose dog has decided to take a piece out of another dog and who needs help in separating the quarreling dogs. You will hear high-pitched barks, deep, low barks, yelps, howls, growls, and all the other types of canine noises. If you look over your shoulder you are bound to see a young woman crying, either because her dog has just won or because her dog has not won either one can bring on the tears.
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April 25th, 2008

Open Wide: Train your Dog for Tooth Brushing

Start Training Early

Starting the process of teaching your dog the importance of good dental care is probably ridiculous, since they don’t understand big words.  But, rather than subject yourself and your dog to potentially poor health and illnesses related to poor dental and tooth care,  it is best for the general good health and well being of your furry friend, to begin the training early in your relationship.

It is probably best to begin toothbrush training at the frist sign that the dog’s adult teeth become visible above the gum line.  Before that, it is relatively non-productive to start the process, since the dog is in the heavy stages of teething. In addition, the excessive handling of your dog’s face and mouth at this stage may end up causing your dog to be resistant to any overtures toward his mouth.  Definitely not a good thing, especially since at some point, you may be required to administer medication in the form of non-chewable pills!

You will gain the trust and acceptance from your canine pal as a puppy by merely lifting his lips and touching his tongue and gums.  As the adult teeth emerge, you will be able to open your dog’s mouth and delicately wipe his gums with a moistened cloth or gauze.

Following this session, don’t forget to offer him a tiny taste treat of the dog paste!

Make certain that your dog is relaxed during these sessions, perhpas even just following a nap.  Brush regularly to get him used to the processes involved.  Where you sit, how you handle your dog’s face and mouth, and your gentle approach are very important so that he will not resist you.

If your pooch pal is somewhat reluctant, try the sessions several times during the day and follow each one with a small taste treat.  Remember that during training, everything should be done in terms of positives.  If the dog associates positive behaviors with the action, you will be much more successful

Don’t use human toothpastes or toothbrushes. There are ingredients in the human paste that are unsafe for dogs and the shape of human toothbrushes is very different than that of those designed for canines.  You can always check with your health practitioner.

If you would like more information, feel free to browse Ten Tips for Your Dog’s Pearly Whites.

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April 21st, 2008

Dog Training is Important

The Importance Of Enrolling Your Dog In The Right Training Class

Enrolling your dog in a training class is a vital part of the obedience club as well as your dog’s education. The dog is brought into contact with other dogs and has the opportunity to overcome his problems under supervision. At the same time, the owner has the advantage of associating with those who have had experience as he gains knowledge by observation. In addition, classroom training helps to prepare both the owner and the dog for participation in the Obedience Trials at dog shows.
 
Training classes may be held independently at an obedience club when sponsored by another organization, with the exception of privately owned and professional groups. Dog owners may also attend classes endorsed by the Education Department of the Society. Other groups that are sponsoring dog training programs include the board of education, adult education centers, and departments of recreation, humane societies, and community centers.
 
The participants need not necessarily be members of the sponsoring organization to enroll in the class. Fees as well as other charges must be decided upon what courses will be given, the number of lessons per course, and the day of the week and hours that are most suitable for training.
 
The public is becoming more broad-minded on the subject of dog training and it recognizes the benefits derived from such activity. Authorities have been persuaded to open the doors of school gymnasiums, community centers, and city halls. Park officials, YMCA’s, and churches also cooperate in offering training programs. In some instances, universities permit the use of campus grounds. Armories and privately owned riding stables frequently contribute their facilities.
 
A big disadvantage can be overcome when the training is held outdoors. More dogs can be accommodated and there is no problem about quarters in which to work. When the training is done indoors, it is impractical to work in a room smaller than 40 or 50 feet square. However, such places are hard to find. The larger the room, the better, but the rent for a large room is often prohibitive.
 
The type of floor in the training room is important. Results will be poor if the dogs slip and the owners have a hard time keeping their footing. Rubber matting will remove this hazard, though it can be quite pricey. A room at street level is preferable to one where it is necessary to climb stairs. Quarters with a door opening onto the street are more desirable than an inside room with long passageways.
 
When the dogs are exercised at frequent intervals there should be little cause for complaint, but some owners are reluctant to take their dogs outside when it involves a long walk. The training room with a stage or balcony has added advantages. The extra space will provide a place for the dogs to stay when they are not working and for visitors to observe the class.

To learn more about  dog training and teaching consistency in rules, read Give it Up-Teach Consistency.

 

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April 12th, 2008

Proper Dog Table Manners

Please, Thank you and May I Be Excused: Dog Table Etiquette

Your puppy needs to learn proper table manners if he is to become a good house-dog. He must learn to give up his food to you without a struggle. He must also learn not to take food that does not belong to him. Training your puppy both aspects of table manner early on will prevent biting over his meal or over a stolen food later on. Since both aspects go against the dog’s natural instinct, they are necessary lessons to learn for him when he lives with humans. It is often necessary for dogs to be trained against their natural instincts or they can become threats to their families.
 
Every time you feed your puppy, tell him “Ok” as you place his dish in front of him. Nothing conscious will get through for the first few weeks, but something is definitely getting absorbed. Your puppy is beginning to learn that you will give permission when he is to eat.
 
After a few weeks of this automatic training, put the bowl down and do not say ok. In fact, do not say anything. If he waits for you, in about 2 seconds say “Ok” followed by “Good dog” and let him enjoy his meal. If, on the other hand, he goes for his food, gently pull him back with your hands on his collar and say “No.” You may have to repeat this if necessary. When he looks up at you or waits for about two seconds, say “Ok” followed by “Good dog.”
 
Continue with the “Ok” every time you feed your puppy. Twice a week, have him wait for the “Ok” until he knows to wait for the command before he starts with his meal. You can then continue to say “Ok” when you feed him without testing him every week. This is not and should not be a contest of wills. Never use this exercise as a trick to show off to your friends and other people that you have this control over your dog that he would not touch a piece of meat unless you told him he could. It is not supposed to be a trick, but proper etiquette to teach him not to take food that does not belong to him.
 
In about a month or so, your puppy should have no problem waiting for the “Ok” signal. While you are teaching him restraint, occasionally add food to his bowl while he is eating using your bare hand. If he growls when your hand comes near his bowl, say “NO!” and take away the food. Feed him again at his next scheduled mealtime.
 
Once every other week, when he is in the middle of his meal, call his name to get his attention or say “No” and take away his dish. If he does not growl, add a treat to his meal and return the dish immediately, followed by saying “Ok, good boy.” Once your puppy allows hands near his bowl, accepts the removal of his food and waits for his “ok,” you have successfully communicated to your dog that he does not have to protect his meal as he would have in the wild.

Further details will be found in Training Your Dog Not to Beg.

 
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April 2nd, 2008

The Alpha Dog–It’s Really YOU!

Showing Your Dog Who’s the Boss

Before you begin training your dog, settle who is in charge of your "pack." Address that issue with leadership exercises so that the actual training can truly be as much fun as it is supposed to be. You may do a simple four-week leadership program that consists of the thirty-minute “Down” and the ten-minute “Sit,” each done three times a week, on alternate days. Both can be practiced at any time of the day, so long as you keep an eye on your companion dog.
 
During the first week, sit your dog at your left side. Kneel next to him, both of you facing in the same direction. Drape your left arm across his shoulder and hold your hand, palm up, behind his left foreleg, just below the elbow. Place your right hand behind the right foreleg. Supporting your dog’s forelegs on your palms, lift him into the begging position and lower him onto the ground with a “Down” command.
 
When you lift him into the begging position, keep your thumbs either up or folded in your palms so that you cannot accidentally apply pressure on his forelegs. Take your hands off him and keep still. Every time your dog gets up, put him back. After thirty minutes, give the release word "Ok," even if he has fallen asleep, to let him know the exercise is over. Practice this exercise three times during the training week, on alternate days.
 
Most dogs, after several attempts at getting up, resign themselves to remaining in position for the thirty minutes. Some, on the other hand, literally kick and scream almost the entire time. It is the latter who need this exercise the most, and you will have to remain patient and calm. Increase the frequency of this exercise, and do it every day. If your dog is really bouncy, you may want to teach this exercise on a leash. Sit in a chair next to the dog and then sit on the leash so your hands are free to put him in position.
 
The purpose of this exercise is to teach your dog who is in charge and for your dog to accept you as pack leader. Your ability to physically place and keep your dog in the “Down” position is an absolutely necessary component of that purpose. Once your dog accepts you as leader, all further training will go smoothly.
 
On the second week, sit in a chair next to your dog as you practice the thirty-minute “Down”. For the ten-minute “Sit,” place him into a “Sit” as follows: With him standing at your left side, both of you facing in the same direction, place your right hand against his chest and your left hand on his shoulders. With your left hand, stroke down the entire length of the dog’s back, over the tail all the way to the dog’s knees. With equal pressure of the right hand and the left, fold him into a sit with the command "Sit." Take your hands off the dog and keep still.
 
Every time he moves, put him back. After ten minutes, use the release word "Ok" to let him know the exercise is over. Practice the thirty-minute “Down” and the ten-minute “Sit” three times each, on alternate days during the training week.
 
On week three, when you practice the thirty-minute “Down” and the ten-minute “Sit”, sit across the room from him. Make sure you put him back if he should move.
 
On week four,move about the room while he remains in position, but do not leave the room.
After you have successfully completed this four-week exercise, your dog will understand that you are in charge.
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